Once the light starts changing, hit Stop on the remote right after an image has been triggered.

It might slow down your camera’s operation though so beware! I have image review of to save battery life but you can have it on if you want. Dial in your settings for the proper exposure and set your remote to the desired interval.Frame up your shot, make sure it’s level and focussed, turn off IS and AF.When triggering the camera from the menus you have to push many more buttons which means you might accidentally change your framing (this kills the shot). The reason we are using an external remote or intervalometer is that it is much easier to ‘stop and start’ the sequence to change settings and check the exposure than when using a software solution. In short: you will be keeping an eye on the histogram or exposure level and adjust the shutter speed and eventually ISO speed in between photographs until the light stops changing. In post-production we’ll be using a specialised timelapse editing software called LRTimelapse to fix this flicker. By changing your exposure settings during the shoot you end up with a sequence that ‘flickers’. Going from the middle of the day to the middle of the night with no light pollution around you means you will have to ‘ramp’ (gradually adjust) your settings up to 15 stops. This means that your timelapse sequence will either get underexposed or overexposed. When the sun sets or rises there is an obvious consequence: the amount of light hitting your photo sensor changes. In this 11.5-minute tutorial, I’ll walk you through how to set up your camera (any type of camera with a Manual mode will do), how to shoot it properly and how to edit your sequence from beginning to end using Adobe Lightroom and LRTimelapse. As the ambient light changes, so should your exposure settings. A holy grail timelapse sequence is a timelapse shot during sunset or sunrise.

Photo supreme vs lightroom timelapse